We’re in Molino Galochas, a rather nice Casa Rurales (rural house). It came highly recommended by previous clients on Gronze, the source of all knowledge Camino. We’ve bathed (it’s such a childish thrill to find that the bathroom has a bath) and are waiting for dinner at 7:30. We’re both tired from the 32km along dusty ex Roman roads – whatever one thinks of the romans, their ability to build roads straight as an arrow, (which actually flies parabolically, unless there’s a sidewind or it hits a passing goat) is astonishing, or if you’re walking, really boring.

Back to the walk.

We stopped here for a very late lunch and to watch the swifts and martins swooping fast and low above the water, across the road and above the barley in search of food. Glorious.

It’s been a long haul today, starting out in an urban scene of grime, poverty and neglect and ending in the countryside on the edge of hills leading into Galicia. All being well tomorrow will see us in Astorga, gateway into the mountains and the verdant colours of a usually well drenched even at this time of year, Galicia. The last time we were here it was April and we found ourselves fighting blizzards of snow and sleet, four feet snow drifts on O Cebreiro and icy paths. Hopefully the weather will be a little kinder to us this time.

Nearly time for dinner.

Buen camino