We’ve left the Camino (sad).

We took longer than usual to get going this morning. Last night’s communal dinner was surprisingly pleasant. There were four Irish pilgrims, a husband and wife and two friends. They had been joined on their walk by two American ladies and all six had walked together from St. Jean. All six were stopping at Burgos and flying home. One of the chaps stood up at the end of the meal and proposed that each of us (perhaps 20 altogether) stood in turn and talked about why each were walking the Camino.

Given that this is what prompted our departure last time, Dorothy looked askance at me. The same albergue, same room, same table. Different pilgrims; a different result?

Thankfully yes, and as it turned out, all comments were thoughtful and respectful and I managed successfully to upset no-one.

Breakfast was two fried eggs and bread. We were almost the last out. One of our number, an Australian chap

called Carlos had been born in Spain and had emigrated with his parents aged 4 or so. Carlos’ Spanish was excellent – thankfully since the chap on my right at dinner spoke only Spanish. A bicigrino, a cycling pilgrim, who’d started in Zaragoza, he was in his sixties but was managing to average 70km a day on his mountain bike, which is impressive at any age. In contrast, Carlos started from St. Jean with a 16kg pack. Unsurprisingly he’d developing a nasty case of tendonitis which the hospital had put down to a heavy pack and boots. He’d sent 5kg onto his relatives in Zaragoza and had switched to trail shoes but the damage had been done. He’s currently managing on a daily dose of diclofenac. Having flown all the way from Sydney he’s adamant that he’ll finish in Santiago.

The scene at breakfast

Outside

A somewhat battered garage.

And yay !

Look closely at this next image.

At this time in the morning, the sun is low in the sky, the sparrows are chirping and it’s all very peaceful and idyllic.

The first 6km or so towards Burgos is rural, lots of huge fields and …

Burgos was covered in what seemed to be a pollution haze, caused in part I suspect by what appears to be only steam, but who knows.

Certainly the steam seems to join seamlessly with the haze.

This route takes us alongside the airport before winding its way through a small wooded area and then following the river into and through Burgos.

The cathedral is stunning, at least from the outside. Last time we were here a cacophony of bells rang out, deafening all within 5km. This time thankfully no bells.

We’d covered the 14km or so in under three hours so with time to kill, I took a few photos of the Spanish street sculptures.

I really do enjoy seeing these. Much, much better than sculptures of genocidal generals on horseback who’d managed to wipeout some poor African or Indian village in the pursuit of God, Queen and the east India company.

That said, I did come across this chap.

With a little research one learns that it’s El CID but bearing little or no resemblance to the real El CID who of course looked much more like Charlton Heston. (http://www.filosofia.org/lugares/001/g021.htm).

Much more amusing is …

IF you look closely you can see that someone in front of the pair is in the process of photographing them. Neither have any idea that I’ve snapped him.

I’ve decided that every Camino will have one selfie and not to break with tradition, here it is.

The train journey was long and boring and unfortunately Dorothy left her white space grade aluminium water bottle on the train (sigh). The route took us through what appeared to be desert landscapes, devoid of moisture, plants above 3’ tall, creatures and humans. It was a pleasure to finally reach Madrid station.

A short taxi ride later we were brushing the Rioja blood red dust off our shoes, showering and getting ready to hit the town. 50 minutes later we were back having had a great but slightly odd dinner and generally mentally preparing ourselves for the 30 hour trek to Cairns tomorrow. I’m hoping to make it to El Reina Sofia, Spain’s museum of 20th century art to see Picasso’s Guernica in particular in the morning. One of the 20th century’s most important and certainly most moving works it’s something I’ve long wanted to see.

This will be the last post of Frances 19, hopefully to be continued in 2020 and perhaps finally completed in 2021.

Buen Camino