We started late this morning; it was 7:45 or so before we were out and walking. We’d left the majority of pilgrims behind in Santa Domingo but a dozen or so could be spotted ahead and behind us as we scampered into the early morning sun. (Dorothy might insist on the more descriptive ‘trudged’) but I stand by scampered …

… mainly because today was sunflower day. The red earth of the Rioja region and the vines on every scrap of ground has given way to sunflowers.

They’re clearly at the end of their growing period and are waiting for harvesting. They look so sad and it’s hard not to anthropomorphise because they seem so human, happy and cheerful in the height of summer, bedraggled and with bowed heads now, but let’s remember them in their prime.

This landscape has huge fields. Many held corn, now harvested,

others are still full of sunflowers and a few have seen the sunflowers harvested and the stalks ploughed back into the earth.

It’s been a long day. We stopped for breakfast in Redecilla Del Camino for breakfast

shortly after crossing the border from Rioja into Castilla y León.

We continued on to Belorado, some 16km from Grañón for a second breakfast/early lunch. We’ve had enough of bocadillo so we bought an avocado, some tomatoes, salad leaves and bread and had a picnic in the central square.

We were joined after a few minutes by an elderly lady who lives in Dorset but is originally from Belgium. She met her ex husband working on an organic farm in Dorset many decades ago and stayed. She’s finding the Camino quite hard on her feet and is taking some time out to recover. She’s not the first who’ve said that. Too many are walking in heavy boots on tarmac and concrete, not ideal.

The remaining 12km to tonight’s stop in a large albergue attached to a 4* hotel was uneventful. We passed through three small villages kept alive I suspect from the passing pilgrims. Each has two or three albergues,

all of which are full at the moment. September is always a busy month and this has been busier than ever which is clearly good for the local community but not so if you’re looking for a little solitude.

We came across a few interesting creatures on our way today, firstly a genuinely enormous Siani flewog

followed by this strange creature

and then the first (of many I’m sure) of a dog chained to guard his master’s wall.

The rural Spanish clearly see dogs as working creatures that are entitled to absolutely no creature comforts. The urban Spanish are no doubt similar to ourselves and one often sees dogs out walking. It’s certainly difficult to see dogs tied up in all weathers for no apparent purpose other than to bark loudly. There’s either a lot of theft in rural Spain or it’s simply paranoia.

The path in this part of the Camino really does seem to go on for ever.

But all good thing come to an end and after crossing a rather rickety bridge

we arrived at Hostel San Anton where in two short minutes, we’ll be allowed access to the main hotel restaurant where the fare will be as good as that offered to hotel guests but at a fraction of the price.

In the spirit of the Camino here are two more images

Buen Camino