Dorothy and I are heading back to the Camino on 8th April, returning on the 18th. We left Spain last year at Burgos having spent the night at Cardenuela de Rio Pico, roughly 40km from the subject of the last post, Belorado. The 40km was surprisingly straightforward and unlike the walk into Belorado, much more interesting – over the Sierra de Atapuerca with views across to Burgos. The day was warm and sunny, peaceful with few other pilgrims en route.

The albergue was pleasant but the lady running wasn’t the happiest of souls. There were about fifteen of us sitting down at the communal dinner, an eclectic mix of young and old. Dinner wasn’t overwhelming but the conversation more than made up for it. There’s an unspoken agreement on the Camino not to discuss one’s reasons for undertaking the trip. Many of course are devout Catholics, others, like Dorothy and myself simply enjoy the relative peace and solitude that long walks bring. There is something extremely refreshing about the simplicity of carrying all of your possessions on your back as you walk from albergue to albergue. Shedding responsibilities for family, work and with little or no access to newspapers is a delight.

But, on this occasion we were discussing the local architecture and Dorothy and I had both noticed how ornate the churches were in contrast to the evident poverty of the local population. It’s difficult to see beauty in such clear exploitation and I made the mistake of saying as much, despite Dorothy’s vain attempts to kick me under the table. The conversation grew a little heated, broadened to include the history of the Catholic church under popes such as the Borgias, Pius XII in the thirties and the previous pope Benedict. We made our way quickly through the old and new testaments and all in all a great time was had by all concerned.

Later that evening we reflected that perhaps we had filled, unintentionally the role of somewhat uninvited guests at a party so we decided to curtail the trip at Burgos and to come back in due course when we, by which I really mean me, would adopt a vow of silence when discussing matters likely to cause offence.

The couple who had started the conversation were interesting. Both are married, but not to each other. Both are great long distance walkers, usually together. Last year they’d taken a year out and had walked to Jerusalem together. Ugh, lots and lots of concrete which didn’t seem to bother them. Lovely people – at breakfast next morning they assured us that everyone had really enjoyed the chat but I’m not convinced that the young lady who had borne the brunt of it would agree.

The walk into Burgos was uneventful, very pretty apart from around the airport as many people have commented. Burgos is a lovely city, the area around the cathedral is stunning as was the cacophony that greeted us from the bells as we entered the city walls. The bus trip back to Bilbao was as always, swift and smooth – the Spanish have billiard table smooth roads totally unlike the crater pitted, third world apologies for roads that we have here, in Oxford at least.